Roma May 29, 2011

I've been in Rome for a few days and am loving it.  What a beautiful city just oozing history!
My laptop has died ( or is in a very deep hibernation)  so I'm limited in what I can do on a Mac that I borrow from hotel reception now and then.  Limited because I don't get to use it for long and can't downoad my photos etc.
Yesterday I went to the Vatican, hired a private guide and spent four  to five hours with her touring all the major highlights and museums.  Never once had to stand in the mile long line ups.  it was worth every euro.
I went back today just in time for the Pope to come to his window and give a little talk and then a blessing in about a dozen languages.  I have been totally in awe of the whole thing....this non religious person is overwhelmed!  I had bought a few rosarys for the Catholics in the family....they are now duly blessed by the Pope.
I have met the most wonderful interesting couple!  He lives in Malta, she lives in Arizona...they met about 6 months ago in an airport somewhere, got to know each other online and...here they are in Rome!  He has offered me his home in Malta to use when I come back from my cruise on June 10th.  I am very tempted!  They will still be travelling , both have jobs that they can still work online whie hopping around the world together!  and I would have the place to myself  (well, except for the maid that will be instructed to let me in if I decide to go!)  What a once in a life time opportunity.  My other plans could wait till next time.   (Venice, Milan)  .  If no one else wants this computer I think I just may do a bit of Malta research.....hmmm
The joy of not booking anything ahead, I can do whatever I want, when ever I want, should opportunities present themselves.

Big big European football final tonight.  Just happens to have two Italian teams in the final.  Palermo and Milan.  North vs South.  Here in Rome it is pretty obvious who they are all cheering for.  The town was covered in Palermo pink shirts today.  And flags and scarves, and hats  etc etc.  I wanted t climb the Spanish steps today and couldn't even get close due to big pep rally going on there.  I might be missing hockey fever back in Canada....but there are altenatives!
Too bad I can't post some photos.  Promise I will when I get the chance.
Arivederchi de Roma!

May 26, Viareggio Italy

I

I've fallen in love folks, and I feel like I'm cheating.  On Mexico!  
I've fallen in love with Italy!  Can you blame me with a view like this?  All kidding aside, I've rekindled my love for Greece and Spain but now I'm adding Italy to the group as well.  What a wonderful, beautiful place.  The people have been kind and helpful, the scenery is second to none, the food is to die for, the weather has been perfect.    And the wine is worth writing home about!

Now, no reading between the lines!  I really am referring to the country...not some new or old man.

For sure I will be returning to my beloved Mexico, but what a lovely diversion this has been. 



There has been a rumor of a train strike happening tomorrow and I am scheduled to head to Rome.  Latest word is that it's not happening but no one knows for sure.  I guess I'll find out in the morning.  The hotel here in Viareggio has assured me that I will know before check out time and that if I return from the train station I will be able to move back into my room.  Nice.  told they were friendly and helpful.

If I do make it to Rome I have decided to do a bit of a splurge....what?  another one?  and am staying in a hotel close to the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps.  If I'm only going to be there for a few days I decided I should do it right. 

Monday I need to find my way to the port city of Civitavecchi , about an hour and a half away from Rome.  I'll overnight there and board the Noordam the following day for a 10 day cruise around the western Mediterranian.  The plan at this point is to then head to Milan and Venice and back to Rome for my flight home.  The original Plan A was to head to Spain and Portugal, but due to orders from my eye doc in Victoria I will only have 12 days after the cruise so I might as well stay in Italy.

I love the shops here...and today a huge market!  The Italian designers are awesome.   I broke down and bought a bathing suit...with cover-up.  Purple.  (Just what I need.....not!)

I've got my fingers crossed for you Reagh and Terry.  I sure hope your house sale goes through. 

Ciao per ora!   (Bye for now)  

Florence, Italy. May 20-23

Meet David.  A Michaelangelo replica that sits (well.....stands)  in all his glory on top of a hill overlooking Florence.  He seems to be  hanging out every where around town!  Anybody want one?  He's on keychains, magnets, hats, T-shirts, and is available in sculptures of any size.  And the sculptures don't even need to be of his whole self...there are replicas of just one part of his anatomy available...also in various sizes.  Haha.

One of the wonderful old bridgers across the Arno River.

Santa Croce, and it's plaza.  It's not hard to tell that this was cruise ship and tour day.  I went back today around noon and almost had the place to myself.

Another view of the Arno..this time with a covered bridge.  This really is a beautiful city.  It's also extremely rich in history.







I overnighted in Rome upon arrival and the next day headed to Florence by rail.  A beautiful trip through the rolling hills of Tuscany's olive trees and grape vines.

I had pre booked a hotel here that ended up being a bit of a surprise!  Not terrible aweful, like the one in Istanbul....but unique.  At least for me.  In my room there is a sink and a bidet.  The toilet, another bidet and the shower are in a room down the hall.  A shared bath!  Never ever did I think I would live to see that day!  My booking had quoted me the wrong price of 87 E /day and I had it lowered to 50 E ($75?)    It's clean and in a super great location,  near the railway station and the bus depot, and is only for 2 nights.  So I have stayed.  32 stairs to the 1st floor reception area, another 32 to my 2nd floor room.  At least I'm getting some exercise.  Not to mention the miles I walk each day!  This hotel includes breakfast, but after being up for several hours during the night and then going back to bed.....I slept to almost noon!!!  I needed that, but what a shock!  Maybe now my body clock will match the actual clock.  I hope so.
Today I bought a train ticket for tomorrow that will take me to Viareggio...on the beach, not far from Pisa.   I decided I needed to chill out for a few days, so have booked a lovely looking beach front place called the Mirage for Monday to Friday.   It's lovely to not have anything booked too far in advance, I can go where I want when I want to go there!    I have a new book to follow the one I started 10 days ago in Frankfurt, carted it all the way back to Canada for a week without once opening it, carted it back here.  It's time to  lay on a beach and finish it and leave it some where.  It's not even a good book.  Bought it somewhere that the selection of books in English was limited.  But I'm a firm believer....you finish what you start!!  
I've had some great food here.  Including artichoke on a pizza and gnocchi Serantino.  Thanks for the artichoke recommendation Susie, I would never have ordered that  without you suggesting it. 
Wolfgang: so far so good.  I still have my wallet, my money and my documents.  But thanks to your comments  I have been extremely careful. 
So, where will I go when I check out of the Mirage on Friday?  Who knows!  I only know that by Monday I need to be in Civitavecchia to be able to board the Noordam the next day.

Arrivederci per ora

May 18. Victoria

HI all.  It's been a busy week.  Anyone following along will know that last Thursday I woke up in Frankfurt Germany and headed home to Victoria for a week.  I had a very uneventful non-stop flight to Vancouver where I had to kill a few hours before being able to connect to my flight to Victoria.

By the time I got home it was dinner time in BC, but my body thought it was early the next morning.  I fought the jet lag for a few days,  and then had the brainwave....I'm returning to Europe  in  a week, why fight it.  So, I 've been living my days from about 3AM to 7PM.  This seems to work for me and may make it easier for me on my return to Europe.

I had the treatment to my eye done on Monday and was then able to finalize my plans for the next step of my journey.  I needed to wait to see when I was being scheduled for the next treatment before I could make any decisions.  Next 'shot in the eye" is scheduled for June 23rd...so I will return on June 22nd.  I'm going to lose a week from the original plan so I opted not to return to Frankfurt and then head to Prague.  That will have to wait untill some other time.  Instead, I booked a return flight to Rome.  I leave tomorrow morning.  Upon arrival I will over night in Rome and catch a train the next morning for Florence...in the heart of the Tuscany region.    I will spend 10 days in Tuscany  (woohoo...wine country!)  and make my way back to Rome. 
At the end of May I will board the HAL Noordam for a 10 day Western Mediterranean Enchantment  cruise. Keep checking here for updates from some reallly terrific places that I will go to  (Monte Carlo, Tunisia, Sicily  etc!)    The plan after that is to head to Madrid.   I've been to Spain a few times but have never been to Madrid and this seemed like a good time to do that.  After hitting the highlights I'll head to the beaches of the Andaluccia area before heading back to Rome for a few days before returning home.     Adding the 10 day cruise into the middle of this leg changes my original plans a lot...but I'll get to go to places that I otherwise would not have got to.  Europe isn't going anywhere, anytime soon.  I'll be back! 

Gosh, just typing all that tires me out!  This time I have a lot less luggage than the last 6 weeks so have opted to take my full size laptop.  Hopefully this means that it will be easier to upload photos here.  I really do hate that little mini thing I had with me for April  and early May.    It is just so slow and limiting!!     My carry-on is packed and ready to go...that's all I'm taking.  I came home with 18.5 kilos packed into it and am returning with 10.5.  My goal was 10k but adding the cruise, again added "the shoe issue"!!  The laptop and a book and a few other essentials will go into my big purse. 

Speaking of shoes.  Anyone that saw my photo of the shoe store in Frankfurt that I posted on Facebook will understand this.  Pam has suggested, that if I ever find another place like that to use my iphone, take photos, post them immediately on FB and wait for you all to text me with your orders!  The apple hasn't fallen far from the tree with my girl when it comes to shoes! 

And now to the subject of texting.  I added International texting to my mobility pkg to-day.  Incoming and outgoing texts are unlimited for the next 60 days.  If you have my iphone number, feel free to text.   

It's been a very busy few days.  Pay my property taxes that will come due while I'm away, clean the fridge, buy more travel med insurance, find a notary and sign the last of the probate forms and deliver to the Court Registry, unpack, do laundry, repack,  get a hair cut, get my gel nails redone,  book hotel in Rome, buy train ticket to Florence, book cruise, print off all the etickets and boarding passes,  talk daily to my Mom,  buy some  more Euros,  pay my bills.....yikes!  Into that add hugs from Grand kids, attending a Spring Concert at the school, lunch with friends,  and somehow managing to find time to eat occasionally and sleep a lot! 

Whew.  Next blog from somewhere in Tuscany.  Maybe I'll love it there and stay awhile...like forever. 

Ciao!!  

Tuesday May 10, 2011 Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Do you know about shoes in Europe?  The men wear shoes.  Yes, shoes.  Not  sneakers or trainers or tennies or whatever you want to call them.   Shoes.   Real, honest to goodness shoes….you know the ones?  They take a bit of shoe polish and a good brush now and then.

You know the shoes that are advertised on Shoedazzle?  That’s what is on the women’s feet.    Stylish as all get out.   How do you spot the North American tourists?  That’s us in the comfortable walking shoes or sneakers.   

So far on this trip I have been in Spain,   Greece, Turkey and Germany and I am astounded by the number of locals that are smokers.  It blows me away….everyone, everywhere, both sexes, all ages!   Not too long ago I read that Turkey had declared a law banning smoking in all public places.  The whole country has decided that means public enclosed places.  Most of the merchants in the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul are standing out in front of their stalls or shops smoking….and the Bazaar is NOT an outdoor place.  It’s fully enclosed with a roof….so the merchants stand out in the public walkway area, sipping on the endless tea and puffing away.    Most of the restaurants in a lot of places I’ve been  are located out on the sidewalks, with tables only inches apart, and well used ashtrays on every table.    Today after arriving in Frankfurt I went for a stroll down the street and stopped for what I thought was a well deserved beer in a very nice looking, almost empty  sidewalk  bistro/bar. .  Next thing you know, I am surrounded  by smokers….about 20 people at the four tables around me…and everyone lit up.  Need I say that I did not have a second beer.  I hate to sound like one of those awful ex-smokers, and maybe under the circumstances I’m more sensitive than usual…but this is ridiculous!   I thought these were countries of well educated people. 

I flew on Lufthansa today for the first time.  It was nice to discover that even on a short flight of just over 2 hours, we got fed a decent meal.   I’m flying with them again on Thursday, non-stop to Vancouver and then back here the following Thursday.  Hooray, I can look forward to getting fed. 

I mentioned on Facebook a few days ago that I spent several hours one afternoon with another female solo traveler.  We hooked up because we were in the same café…needed to go to the bathroom….decided to share a table from that point onward so we could take turns using the W C!!   Now, that may not sound like a difficult thing to do…going to the bathroom.  But if you have been shopping, have bags of stuff, a handbag as well and “need to go”, just what do you do with all your stuff if you are alone?  Take it with you?  Not a good idea to just leave it there as the tables are located outside and it would be so tempting for a snatch and grab situation.    We both burst out laughingwhen we realized why we wanted to share space…nice to have someone else understand without having to explain!  Anyhow, we ended up spending several hours together, drinking beer and taking turns heading off to the WC.  She has been on the road for about 6 months, had just come from Germany (where I was headed next) and her next stop was Thailand.  So, she shared some insite into traveling around Germany and Eastern Europe, and I could talk to her about South East Asia.  After Thailand she thought she might go to Malaysian Borneo but knew no one that had been there and was a bit leery.  I’d been there!   She worked for a while in Alaska for an OSHA based safety products company and also taught WHMIS…and so had I.  But HER job led to a transfer to West Africa for a year!  And Anartica for a while.   I found her interesting, she found me interesting.   We discussed jobs and kids  and travel and solo travel and how travel affects relationships and a lot of other things.  A super afternoon for a couple of kindred spirits.  I found myself, several times , wishing that you were with us Melinda, you would have loved sharing with us. 

When I first planned this trip it was for all of April, May and June.  And then my eye specialist in Victoria stepped into the picture and insists that I return to Victoria for this dam shot in my eye, 6 weeks after the last one.  GRRR….I was very annoyed….did the research into getting it done here in Germany, or in Ireland…or somewhere other than having to go back home.  Turns out it was a LOT cheaper to fly home for a few days and have it done there than to pay cash for it here with no medical insurance .  Travel medical does not cover this as it’s not considered an emergency and in any case is a pre existing condition.  So, home I go on Thursday for a week.  Eye treatment will be on Monday.   I hopefully will have some estate paperwork to finish up with and will get that finally finished with.  To begin with I was totally annoyed that I was going to have to do this half way through my itinerary.  And now?  I am really looking forward to seeing my grandkids and Pam and Ted, and getting some stuff done before I head out again.   So,  sometimes, things really do work out for the better. 

I’ll also be there when my Turkish carpets arrive!   (Well, the day after actually)  Did you know that mailing and insurance costs of carpets from Turkey is paid for by their government?  It’s a super way to promote their carpet industry.   And it is supposed to arrive customs /duty free in Canada, considered a work of handcrafted art.   I’ll post photos of them when I get home.  So much easier to do from my home computer.    

Till then……goodnight from Frankfurt am Main.

Gute Nacht bis folgendes Mal.

Sunday May 8th Istanbul

My problems are all solved and once again I am loving Istanbul.  I left the dumpy hotel and moved into the Antea Palace Hotel and Spa.  A Sultan’s palace at Sultan’s prices….but I’m happy.   Now I have a doorman,  a big fluffy robe,  a gorgeous sauna/steam bath/Turkish bath/fitness center, room service,  and…best of all…free bottled water.  Haha.   As I said…it’s worth every penny, and it’s only for four days, so what the heck.

After I made the move I sort of got it into my head that because I had done this (spent a fortune on a room)  I really should not also spend the money on a Turkish carpet, which really was one of my intended actions while here.  I then talked to a friend back home….and he reminded me that for three years I have been kicking myself that I did not get one the last time I was here.  And that if I did not get one this time I would continue to forever regret  it.  So, yesterday I headed out with a plan.  A woman on a mission.  On a little side street I found the perfect carpet shop.  Good selection, gracious sales staff, and prices that seemed slightly lower than other places that I had browsed.   So, there I am sipping apple tea  while Manmet  (no kidding, that was his name…anyone ever watch “Outsourced”?)  brings out carpet after carpet.   Bam..bam..  one after another , like flying magic carpets…the display on the floor gets higher and higher…until..THERE IT IS!   MY CARPET!!   A one of a kind, signed by the weaver, unique carpet seemingly made just for me.   We haggle over price, he throws in a cushion cover, then another.  When we get up to four cushion covers and free  insured courier delivery service (Hah…more on that in a minute)  And a certificate of authenticity, we are ready to discuss method of payment.  With both of us armed with a calculator we discuss…..Euros?  Turkish Lira?  Dollars?  Credit card or cash?   After a decision to use Turkish Lira in cash,  a quick trip to the ATM machine around the corner and maxing out my daily limit on several debit cards………my magic carpet  (and four cushion covers) is on its  way to Pam’s house and should be delivered on Wednesday or Thursday.    I already knew from my last visit that the Turkish government pays for all shipping of carpets to anywhere in the world.  What a wonderful  way to support their carpet industry!

In Turkey, there is a delicious confection called Dondurma ice cream.    It does not melt.   Even with the heat of your tongue, you can not lick it off the cone, you must bite it!   It doesn’t sound delicious but it is!   Yesterday I posted on Facebook that I was sitting a block away from the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, in a Mexican restaurant, eating an American cheeseburger, drinking a Dutch beer, listening to Cuban music when the Islamic call to prayer began to be broadcast loudly from the dozen or so nearby mosques.  A friend make the comment  “ethnic indulgence”.   Right on Craig.

Today I wandered around and found the hotel that Tony and I had stayed in three years ago.  I thought I had made a reservation there for this trip but that did not turn out to be the case (see a previous post).  I sat and talked to the guy in the lobby….he tells me “our” room is empty….would I like to go sit on the rooms balcony and have a glass of tea?  So that is exactly what I did.  That may sound morbid, but it wasn’t.  The whole idea of coming here had a lot to do with dealing with my memories and experiencing a sense of closure.   It is amazing what a glass of tea, in the right time and place can accomplish.   And so, it is done.

By the way, speaking of tea,  the Turks seem to have the fine art of making tea miraculously appear down to a science.  It’s everywhere!  It’s offered to you if you wander into a shop…yes, even in the Grand Bazaar!  Especially in the Grand Bazaar!   If you sit on a park bench to rest your weary feet, or simply to take in the sights, sounds and smells,  someone will appear with a tray of tea.  In the parks and around the mosques it is nearly always a young  man or boy.  And it must be prepared not too far away,  ever,  because it is always hot.   It tastes great and it only costs one third of a lira (20 cents).    They also have a tea here called ‘Apple Tea”  that is very good.  I’m bringing home some of that!

One more day here.     Then goodbye to Istanbul,  a city of such perfect chaos that it becomes absolutely irresistible.   Istanbul,  more colorful than a box of M & Ms.

Tuesday finds me flying to Frankfurt, Germany for a few days.  In the meantime I hope everyone had a wonderful Mother’s Day. 

May 5th Istanbul Turkey

When I got to Istanbul today... I got a taxi at the airport...he brings me to within a few blocks of the hotel and says he can't go further....can't go back around to find hotel because of one way streets and traffic  etc etc....makes me get out,  with my luggage.   I pay him 35 lira...and off he goes.  He tells me hotel is just around corner to the left.  Ya...right.   so there's me....with my confirmation print out showing  address of Antique Hotel...which of course is not just around the corner.  No one on the street speaks English, no one on the street knows where to find Antique Hotel.  So, I drag my luggage around for a while over the cobblestones and broken pavement ....a taxi pulls over...I show him the address...he mutters something unintelligible and takes off..  I'm standing there wondering what to do.  A nice shiny black car with a chauffer pullls up.  Realizes I am in distress.  He finds a place to pull over....makes a few phone calls.....schleps my luggage into the car.  and takes me to the Antique Hotel...about 10 blocks from where he rescued me.    He leaves., refuses money, just a nice guy.  Now, I had intended this hotel to be the same place Tony and I stayed in three years ago.    Which is sorta why I'm here...a little trip down memory lane.  Tuns out we stayed at the Antiques Hotel....with an S.  Not the same place at all.  And this place is a real dump!   Not enough room to swing a cat...and good thing there is no one to share the bed with because I am sharing it with my suitcase.  There is no where else to put it.  Hence the reason Singapore is back up to the top of the "Favorite Cities" list!!!

Pre booking  things on line does not always work out!  My lovely little apartments on the islands in Greece were precious jewels...this place?  a lump of granite!    Oh, and did I mention?  I had more than half a jar of instant coffee left in Greece and decided to put it in my carry on.......the lid came off during transit.  Probably while I was dragging stuff around  on the cobblestones looking for this hotel! 

Before being able to go through passport control at the airport, foreigners must first get in line and buy a visitors Visa, which allows one to stay in the country for 90 days.  Big list on the wall of what  the citizens of each country have to pay to be here.  US citizens...15 Euros ( $20)  Canadians  45 Euros ($60) 

This has not been one of my better days.