Sunday May 8th Istanbul

My problems are all solved and once again I am loving Istanbul.  I left the dumpy hotel and moved into the Antea Palace Hotel and Spa.  A Sultan’s palace at Sultan’s prices….but I’m happy.   Now I have a doorman,  a big fluffy robe,  a gorgeous sauna/steam bath/Turkish bath/fitness center, room service,  and…best of all…free bottled water.  Haha.   As I said…it’s worth every penny, and it’s only for four days, so what the heck.

After I made the move I sort of got it into my head that because I had done this (spent a fortune on a room)  I really should not also spend the money on a Turkish carpet, which really was one of my intended actions while here.  I then talked to a friend back home….and he reminded me that for three years I have been kicking myself that I did not get one the last time I was here.  And that if I did not get one this time I would continue to forever regret  it.  So, yesterday I headed out with a plan.  A woman on a mission.  On a little side street I found the perfect carpet shop.  Good selection, gracious sales staff, and prices that seemed slightly lower than other places that I had browsed.   So, there I am sipping apple tea  while Manmet  (no kidding, that was his name…anyone ever watch “Outsourced”?)  brings out carpet after carpet.   Bam..bam..  one after another , like flying magic carpets…the display on the floor gets higher and higher…until..THERE IT IS!   MY CARPET!!   A one of a kind, signed by the weaver, unique carpet seemingly made just for me.   We haggle over price, he throws in a cushion cover, then another.  When we get up to four cushion covers and free  insured courier delivery service (Hah…more on that in a minute)  And a certificate of authenticity, we are ready to discuss method of payment.  With both of us armed with a calculator we discuss…..Euros?  Turkish Lira?  Dollars?  Credit card or cash?   After a decision to use Turkish Lira in cash,  a quick trip to the ATM machine around the corner and maxing out my daily limit on several debit cards………my magic carpet  (and four cushion covers) is on its  way to Pam’s house and should be delivered on Wednesday or Thursday.    I already knew from my last visit that the Turkish government pays for all shipping of carpets to anywhere in the world.  What a wonderful  way to support their carpet industry!

In Turkey, there is a delicious confection called Dondurma ice cream.    It does not melt.   Even with the heat of your tongue, you can not lick it off the cone, you must bite it!   It doesn’t sound delicious but it is!   Yesterday I posted on Facebook that I was sitting a block away from the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, in a Mexican restaurant, eating an American cheeseburger, drinking a Dutch beer, listening to Cuban music when the Islamic call to prayer began to be broadcast loudly from the dozen or so nearby mosques.  A friend make the comment  “ethnic indulgence”.   Right on Craig.

Today I wandered around and found the hotel that Tony and I had stayed in three years ago.  I thought I had made a reservation there for this trip but that did not turn out to be the case (see a previous post).  I sat and talked to the guy in the lobby….he tells me “our” room is empty….would I like to go sit on the rooms balcony and have a glass of tea?  So that is exactly what I did.  That may sound morbid, but it wasn’t.  The whole idea of coming here had a lot to do with dealing with my memories and experiencing a sense of closure.   It is amazing what a glass of tea, in the right time and place can accomplish.   And so, it is done.

By the way, speaking of tea,  the Turks seem to have the fine art of making tea miraculously appear down to a science.  It’s everywhere!  It’s offered to you if you wander into a shop…yes, even in the Grand Bazaar!  Especially in the Grand Bazaar!   If you sit on a park bench to rest your weary feet, or simply to take in the sights, sounds and smells,  someone will appear with a tray of tea.  In the parks and around the mosques it is nearly always a young  man or boy.  And it must be prepared not too far away,  ever,  because it is always hot.   It tastes great and it only costs one third of a lira (20 cents).    They also have a tea here called ‘Apple Tea”  that is very good.  I’m bringing home some of that!

One more day here.     Then goodbye to Istanbul,  a city of such perfect chaos that it becomes absolutely irresistible.   Istanbul,  more colorful than a box of M & Ms.

Tuesday finds me flying to Frankfurt, Germany for a few days.  In the meantime I hope everyone had a wonderful Mother’s Day. 

May 5th Istanbul Turkey

When I got to Istanbul today... I got a taxi at the airport...he brings me to within a few blocks of the hotel and says he can't go further....can't go back around to find hotel because of one way streets and traffic  etc etc....makes me get out,  with my luggage.   I pay him 35 lira...and off he goes.  He tells me hotel is just around corner to the left.  Ya...right.   so there's me....with my confirmation print out showing  address of Antique Hotel...which of course is not just around the corner.  No one on the street speaks English, no one on the street knows where to find Antique Hotel.  So, I drag my luggage around for a while over the cobblestones and broken pavement ....a taxi pulls over...I show him the address...he mutters something unintelligible and takes off..  I'm standing there wondering what to do.  A nice shiny black car with a chauffer pullls up.  Realizes I am in distress.  He finds a place to pull over....makes a few phone calls.....schleps my luggage into the car.  and takes me to the Antique Hotel...about 10 blocks from where he rescued me.    He leaves., refuses money, just a nice guy.  Now, I had intended this hotel to be the same place Tony and I stayed in three years ago.    Which is sorta why I'm here...a little trip down memory lane.  Tuns out we stayed at the Antiques Hotel....with an S.  Not the same place at all.  And this place is a real dump!   Not enough room to swing a cat...and good thing there is no one to share the bed with because I am sharing it with my suitcase.  There is no where else to put it.  Hence the reason Singapore is back up to the top of the "Favorite Cities" list!!!

Pre booking  things on line does not always work out!  My lovely little apartments on the islands in Greece were precious jewels...this place?  a lump of granite!    Oh, and did I mention?  I had more than half a jar of instant coffee left in Greece and decided to put it in my carry on.......the lid came off during transit.  Probably while I was dragging stuff around  on the cobblestones looking for this hotel! 

Before being able to go through passport control at the airport, foreigners must first get in line and buy a visitors Visa, which allows one to stay in the country for 90 days.  Big list on the wall of what  the citizens of each country have to pay to be here.  US citizens...15 Euros ( $20)  Canadians  45 Euros ($60) 

This has not been one of my better days.

Sunday May 1 to May 3rd

For the first time in my life, on Sunday morning I wore my motion sickness wrist bands for the boat trip from Santorini to Naxos.  Just looking at that ship rocking and rolling at the pier was enough to upset one's stomach!   The beginning of the trip was very rough and windy but after the first hour calmed right down.  At the end of the second hour I arrived at the wonderful port of Naxos. 

I took a short taxi to my apartment, called Anthony Suites.  What a wonderful surprise...it's gorgeous!  Nice and big, a nice balcony above a cute little street and only about 30 meters from St George Beach..  The sand is fine like powder and the water is clear, calm and fairly warm. 

On Monday I decided to head to Plaka Beach.  My friend had sugessted that I hop on a local bus and go there....but I had a map, and it didn't look too far, maybe 5 km...so I decided to walk.  Well, I have no idea where I ended up  the names of the little towns were in English on my map and all the signs were in GReek....so I just kept walking.  Not a bus, a beach or a cab to be foujd anywhere.  Finally, I decided the wisest thing to do was to retrace my steps.  Which I did.  Talking to someone later it was decided that I had been way out past the airport....inland...no where near the beach and had probably gone 7 or 8 km before I turned around.  Ouch.  That evening i treated myself to a massage and aromatherapy.  Made my legs and feet feel SO much beter!

Today, Tuesday, I wandered back to the port and found my way to the icon of Naxos..the  Sactuary of Dolian Apollo  (commonly called the Portara..or gate).  It was beautiful up there and the hill that it is located on was covered with wild flowers.  So, I hauled out my book, sat among the flowers and read awhile in the shadow of this ancient ruin.    An awesome experience.  

Tonight I took Irene's advice and went to the old part of town to Relax Restaurant for a meal and the sunset.  Food was good, the owner was friendly and the customers were fun.  And very friendly.  LOL  I had another great time meeting new friends.

Today I finished reading a book I have been engrossed in for a few days.  It's called The Gurnsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society.  I had downloaded it onto my iphone a long time ago and had never listened to it.  I happened to see a used copy of it the other day and have been unable to put it down!  It's a great story about the Occupation of the Channel Islands during the 1940's.  (The book ends during the week that I was born)  It was interesting and I learned a lot about something that I knew nothing about. 

I'm not sure what I will do tomorrow...maybe retry to find Plaka Beach!   And go to the post office.  I found a nice box today and am going to mail a few things home.  Even though I am traveling light, I could not fit even one more fridge magnet or earring into my luggage...so I'm going to dump some of this stuff at the post office.  I still have the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul to conquer! 

Thursday morning finds me on an early morning flight to Istanbul, Turkey.   Next update from there....my favorite city in the whole world.  last time I was there I felt like I was always on a movie set and kept looking around for the cameras!  For me, a  magical place. 

April 30

Just a feew random items today.
It's my last full day here on Santorini and it's a wonderful sunny morning.  The last few have been totally socked in with fog.  Hopefully the day will also be warm.  Maybe today I'll head over to the black sand beach.

Contrary to what most might think, the entire world was not mesmerized by the Royal Wedding.  I'm a few time zones ahead of Britain here so no middle of the night stuff was necessary.  I tried to find coverage on my TV with no luck.  I went down to reception to ask what channel I needed to be on.  The response was "Wedding?  Whose wedding?  Oh, that one...no, not on TV"    I found out later of course that there was coverage  for people with a satelite dish .   So, life went on as normal here yesterday.

Speaking of weddings.  I read an article a few days ago that the number of weddings in Japan has sky rocketed since the disasters of March 11th.   I found that interesting.  The "why wait" mentality of the situation is a bit like what happens during war times.  This wonderful Greek Island of Santorini is litterally teeming with young Japanese couples, presumably on their honeymoons.  That has been the case with the few that I have talked to.  They're easy to spot...they take pictures of everything including every bite of food they eat.   I've also met a few honeymooners from the US.  Santorini is very much like Niagra Falls for popularity for honeymoon trips.  

Yesterday I walked up to the top of the cable car (my apartment is near the top) .  Took the ride to the old port at the bottom.  And then....phew,  rode a donkey back up.  Very aromatic experience.  Yuk.  The trail is steps winding like a snake all the way back up.  Unfortunatly, I have no pictures of when I was actualy on the way up...I used my iphone and the photos won't transfer to this laptop.  I do have others of the donkeys but not from burroback.   (Directly from iphone to FB but only if I use data, no wifi on the trail)

 Later I took a bus to a place called Oia...world famous for it's sunsets.  I had been there the evening before for that but decided to return and explore around the town a bit in the daytime.   It was cloudy the previos night so Puerto Escondido still rates with me as number one for "Best Sunsets"    Local busses go everywhere and cost 1.6 Euros...a great deal.  That's about $2.  I had been warned by my friends on Aegina that Santorini would be very expensive compared to Aegina or Naxos...due to the tourists and honeymooners.  However, I am finding it very cheap, maybe because the high season doesn't start till mid May.  My apartment costs 40Euros a night.  at $1.35/1E  that's $54.  A beer at Murphy's Pub is 8E but everywhere else it's 3, even less at the grocery store.   Fancy restaurants are expensive but there are tons that arn't quite so fancy...and EVERYONE has a great view. 

I have my ticket and I am set to go.  I leave here at 10:30 Sunday morning and arrive at the Island of Naxos around noon.   I have an apartment there as well, named Anthony Suites...named after my first cat!  (inside joke)  

Till next time...giassou!

April 28. Santorini Greece

I have arrived at the island of Santorini.  A beautiful, unusual place...formed by the eruption of a volcano.  There are black sand beaches here as well as red and also white.  Today I am fogged in so will explore those beaches when and if the fog burns off.   The island is also famous for it's sunsets.  I wonder if any of them will surpass the sunsets from the roof of the BenZaa in Puerto Escondido. 

  I have a lovely little apartment here.  The photos show it...the entire square above the word Apartment is mine.  I have a bed-sit, a seperate kitchen and a fairly decent bathroom.  I have a view from all four sides but the best is the blue dome with the sea in the background.  The streets are all winding and narrow...and cobbled, so I'll be sure to watch my footing.   

There is a fairly large supermarket nearby, so having a kitchen, I headed off yesterday for a few necessities of life.  You know, wine, cheese, bread, coffee,  locally grown pistachios.   Interesting little aside, for every Euro spent you get savings stamps for good deals on Tupperware!  Get 20 stamps and get some really cool things for half price!  Yes Brenda, Anna, Cheryl and Pam....I will bring home the brochure with the prices!

I've been asked many times..."Aren't you afraid to travel alone?"  Well, to be honest it never crossed my mind to be afraid until I continued to be asked!  So, now that it has crossed my mind I have given it some thought.    Yes I'm afraid...not of being lonely, or being mugged, or being bored,  but of being alone in my room and chocking on something and having no one to pound my back or give me the heimlick manouver!   Or walking alone down a lonely trail or back road and having a heart attack or appendicitis, or sliiping and breaking a leg.  and having no one to rescue me..or worse yet...having someone rescue me and no one knowing who I am or who to call!   So, point taken...I no longer walk around without my hotel business card and my own card with emergency contact information.  Happy now Mom? 

It looks like te fog is begining to burn off.  Time to go for a long walk.   I REALLY need to burn off a few things myself....like thousands of calories consumed over Easter Week!! 

Till next time...see you on Facebook. 

Easter April 24 to April 27

Easter Sunday was, as promised a very YUMMY day.  After smelling everything cooking all day, the final dinner was as good as anticipated.  .  I've posted several photos onto Facebook...I'll see if I can get them to load here as well.  (Not always easy)  I think there were about 35 of us that sat down for this wonderful, very traditional Greek family style meal. 

And then...Monday!  A Danish Easter meal!  Lots of fish, including herring of course.  Another wonderful meal provided by the expertise of Pia , Rudolf and the three kids, from Denmark.  The finishing touch was an apple pie that was "to die for".  Yum.  

The number of languages being spoken during the week was amazing.  We had Greek, English, French,  and Danish.  I think everyone spoke some English (I was the only one with English as my mother tongue)  Danish family mentioned above spoke Danish, Greek and English.  Clair and Marco that live in Geneva Switzerland speak French to each other but also speak Greek and English.  A huge melting pot of a family.  And they made me feel like I was one of them.  They all even got me speaking some Greek  (I still don't know how to tell a taxi driver off though!  Hopefully I won't need to know that anymore!) 

Tuesday morning Irene and her daughter Kelli drove me to Aegina town and I caught a superfast boat to Athens.  Upon arrival I checked into the same hotel that I stayed in last week and then returned to the pier..a block away...to make arrangements for today's trip to Santorini.

Wednesday....Lugged my luggage through the rain this morning.  Where's a good valet when you need one??   Caught the "HighSpeed" run by Hellenic Seaways to Santorini. I arrived aqbout 1 PM.  It rained just about all the way here, and cleared up just as I arrivred.  I have a lovely little apartment overlooking the sea.  Then I went walking around town, did a bit of grocery shopping, then found a lovely little restaurant for a meal.  I met the cutest Japanes couple...married three days ago and here on their honeymoon.  They live near Tokyo and gave me lots of assurances that Kevin and family will be just fine in Osaka.    They pllayed "Melinda" and took pictures of all of the food they ordered.  I instantly knew they were Japanese by the little picture book of food they had with them....I remember that my daughter-in-law has one just like it!  

I took  a few photo today in Santorini but I'll wait to load them till next time.  (This is not fun...I don't know if it's bercause I'm using this little mini laptop or if it's the connection......but it's a chore. )

I have several more days here and will spend the time exploring.  It's a beautiful place! 

Sat AM April 23

Here's the schedule and menu for today and tomorrow.

Saturday - Resurrection Night
23:00 departure for the church in Aghia Marina
24:00 RESURRECTION  - light your candle with the "Holy Flame" sing "Christos Anesti" and drive back to Kavos Bay with lighterd candles
About 24:30 the Resurrection dinner is served and consists of
1) "Magiritsa"  a traditional Easter soup made with fresh vegetables, chopped lamb liver and intestines in egg-lemon sauce.

2)"Giouvariakia" a Greek beef meatball soup with herbs and rice in good stock, finished off with beaten eggs and fresh lemon juice.

3)  Red eggs, cheese pies, fresh goat cheese, wine, beer, soft drinks, tea, coffee and Easter cookies.

Easter Sunday
After breakfast we will set the skewered lamb on the grill to start cooking.  The lamb needs at least 4 - 5 hours to be completely cooked.  Even though the grill keeps turning automatically, we all need to keep an eye and to take turns in smothering the lamb with the olive oil mix so it doesn't burn or become dry.
While the lamb is roasting, the men are barbecuing bits and pieces (sausages, pork ribs, chicken) just to munch on, with drinks in hand, while we wait for the lamb to cook..
When the lamb is completly cooked we all sit down to enjoy our "Easter Feast"  The lamb is served with green salads, different cheeses and "Pasticio" (macaroni/cheese/beef souffle)  Music and dancing to complete our day!

KALO PASCHA!!    ( Happy Easter)

All of the above is in the words of my hostess Irene.  Thanks Irene.
I will have my camera at the ready during all of this and will take photos when it is appropriate (probably not during church) .   The family has begun to arrive from Athens and elsewhere.  By this afternoon there will be grandmas, aunts, daughters, babies......oh, and some men as well, someone has to be here to be barbecuing all those yummy bits and pieces tomorrow! 

It's another beautiful Mediterranian day.