Sunday, May 8, 2011

Sunday May 8th Istanbul


My problems are all solved and once again I am loving Istanbul.  I left the dumpy hotel and moved into the Antea Palace Hotel and Spa.  A Sultan’s palace at Sultan’s prices….but I’m happy.   Now I have a doorman,  a big fluffy robe,  a gorgeous sauna/steam bath/Turkish bath/fitness center, room service,  and…best of all…free bottled water.  Haha.   As I said…it’s worth every penny, and it’s only for four days, so what the heck.
After I made the move I sort of got it into my head that because I had done this (spent a fortune on a room)  I really should not also spend the money on a Turkish carpet, which really was one of my intended actions while here.  I then talked to a friend back home….and he reminded me that for three years I have been kicking myself that I did not get one the last time I was here.  And that if I did not get one this time I would continue to forever regret  it.  So, yesterday I headed out with a plan.  A woman on a mission.  On a little side street I found the perfect carpet shop.  Good selection, gracious sales staff, and prices that seemed slightly lower than other places that I had browsed.   So, there I am sipping apple tea  while Manmet  (no kidding, that was his name…anyone ever watch “Outsourced”?)  brings out carpet after carpet.   Bam..bam..  one after another , like flying magic carpets…the display on the floor gets higher and higher…until..THERE IT IS!   MY CARPET!!   A one of a kind, signed by the weaver, unique carpet seemingly made just for me.   We haggle over price, he throws in a cushion cover, then another.  When we get up to four cushion covers and free  insured courier delivery service (Hah…more on that in a minute)  And a certificate of authenticity, we are ready to discuss method of payment.  With both of us armed with a calculator we discuss…..Euros?  Turkish Lira?  Dollars?  Credit card or cash?   After a decision to use Turkish Lira in cash,  a quick trip to the ATM machine around the corner and maxing out my daily limit on several debit cards………my magic carpet  (and four cushion covers) is on its  way to Pam’s house and should be delivered on Wednesday or Thursday.    I already knew from my last visit that the Turkish government pays for all shipping of carpets to anywhere in the world.  What a wonderful  way to support their carpet industry!
In Turkey, there is a delicious confection called Dondurma ice cream.    It does not melt.   Even with the heat of your tongue, you can not lick it off the cone, you must bite it!   It doesn’t sound delicious but it is!   Yesterday I posted on Facebook that I was sitting a block away from the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, in a Mexican restaurant, eating an American cheeseburger, drinking a Dutch beer, listening to Cuban music when the Islamic call to prayer began to be broadcast loudly from the dozen or so nearby mosques.  A friend make the comment  “ethnic indulgence”.   Right on Craig.
Today I wandered around and found the hotel that Tony and I had stayed in three years ago.  I thought I had made a reservation there for this trip but that did not turn out to be the case (see a previous post).  I sat and talked to the guy in the lobby….he tells me “our” room is empty….would I like to go sit on the rooms balcony and have a glass of tea?  So that is exactly what I did.  That may sound morbid, but it wasn’t.  The whole idea of coming here had a lot to do with dealing with my memories and experiencing a sense of closure.   It is amazing what a glass of tea, in the right time and place can accomplish.   And so, it is done.
By the way, speaking of tea,  the Turks seem to have the fine art of making tea miraculously appear down to a science.  It’s everywhere!  It’s offered to you if you wander into a shop…yes, even in the Grand Bazaar!  Especially in the Grand Bazaar!   If you sit on a park bench to rest your weary feet, or simply to take in the sights, sounds and smells,  someone will appear with a tray of tea.  In the parks and around the mosques it is nearly always a young  man or boy.  And it must be prepared not too far away,  ever,  because it is always hot.   It tastes great and it only costs one third of a lira (20 cents).    They also have a tea here called ‘Apple Tea”  that is very good.  I’m bringing home some of that!

One more day here.     Then goodbye to Istanbul,  a city of such perfect chaos that it becomes absolutely irresistible.   Istanbul,  more colorful than a box of M & Ms.


Tuesday finds me flying to Frankfurt, Germany for a few days.  In the meantime I hope everyone had a wonderful Mother’s Day. 


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